Novodevichy Convent
What can I tell you about Novodevichy Convent? It's not easy, really, because the saying "a picture is worth a thousand words" applies here probably the most.
When you visit this beautiful, quiet place right by the shores of Moskva river, you immediately feel how the sweet tranquility fills up up your entire being.
I don't know how how to describe that feeling. Some call it "holiness", others "wholeness", and buddhists call it "Nirvana", but as I said - words don't apply here, and even pictures do not. Seeing this place on a photo is not enough - you absolutely have to visit it, because only then you will literally feel "The Force" flowing through you.
In fact, I don't really understand where this feeling is coming from, because Novodevichy Convent's history is literally one big piece of drama, right from its foundation.
The convent was built by Tsar Vasilii III to commemorate the capture of Smolensk - and was also meant to be a fortress "covering" Moscow's borders, along with many other monasteries like Donskoy, Danilov, Simonov and Novospassky.
In fact, Novodevichy's main cathedral is called "Smolenskiy Sobor" - which is again dedicated to Smolensk. By the way, Tsar Vasilii was so proud of himself that the monastery even has a second name - "Bogoroditse-Smolensky Monastery", and I'd bet it was given to make sure no one will ever forget the glorious Russian victory - and the Tsar, of course.
Smolensky Sobor in all its glory
(by akk_rus)
I could never understand this. I don't know about other countries, but in Russia the convents were always associated with war. On the one hand it's good, because the convents were guarding the borders of our ocuntry, but on the other hand, I could never get the idea of fighting in God's name, because that's not quite what Jesus taught us, right?
I remember I even had an argument with a priest I know, and he literally knocked me down by telling that the monks were actually learning martial arts! That is why, he said, the Tsars always relied on the holy men to protect the country - the priests were actually fearsome warriors!
Now where did I hear that, hmmm? Perhaps the word "Shaolin" rings a bell? 
Guess the world's religions are more similar then we're used to think!
Ok, so as weird as it sounds to me - Novodevichy Convent was built to commemorate the victory AND to protect Moscow from unwanted visitors, like Tatars and Poles. Although I may not agree with blending of war and religion (lots of people still do), I am very, very happy the convent was build because it is sooooo beautiful!
Take a look at Smolensky sobor, for example. These golden domes, this architecture that goes back for many centuries - the entire place literally breathes with Russian spirit! In fact, doesn't it remind you of a miniature Kremlin?
It does look like a fortress, doesn't it?
(by Bernt Rostad)
To be honest, even now, when I'm looking at the picture, I feel strange warmth spilling inside my soul. Forgive me for being so sentimental - but I really, truly can't hold it. As cynical as I sometimes may sound - Novodevichy is my little personal totem...
And when you get inside, umm....when you get inside, you'll see ground floors, large spaces (because that's how we like to build in Russia), and many magnificent golden frescoes. Sometimes it's hard to believe they are real, but trust me - they are, and it's a true wonder they've made it to our time through all the troubled years!
And boy there were troubled years! Novodevichy was attacked countless times by the enemies of Moscow (no, not the Americans, silly, the Cold War happened much later!), and in 1612 it was captured and partly destroyed. Later on, thanks to Kuzma Minin and Dmitry Pozharsky, the convent was re-captured and rebuilt with a new design.
But that’s not all. There’s another drama hidden behind those stone walls. You see, with time the monastery began to serve as a retirement place and sometimes a prison for the wives and female relatives of tsars and nobility.
Some of them came willfully, while others were literally forced, like with the case of Sofia Alexeevna, a half-sister of Peter The Great, whom he basically imprisoned. And might I add that her sad story wasn’t unique at all…
Why did Peter do that? Because Sofia refused to give the throne away to her brother, and so probably one day Peter woke up in a bad mood and decided to show everyone once and for all who was the man in the family.
To be serious, this is terrible – it’s basically a life sentence, but with a much stricter rules! Imaging waking up every single time at 5AM just to pray and work all day long! And to think Peter could do this to his close relative… what can I say - power games can often get very, very nasty!
Beautiful, isn't it?
(by yeowatzup)
By the way, one of the reasons the monastery became so rich with time is because the women had to hand over all their jewelry when they entered the convent, so I guess it was quite profitable to say the least.
Well, what do you know - I’m getting cynical….again!
By the way, right near Novodevichy Convent there’s Novodevichy Cemetery – a place where many historic figures are buried. Scientists, philosophers, historians, artists – and many other people whose names are often mentioned in our school books.
Sure, that’s not exactly a good place for a visit – but that’s enough to only take a short glance to literally understand how “condensed” is the history over there.
Once you’ve finished going through the place, you can walk among the riverbanks to slowly think about what you’ve seen and more important - what you’ve felt.
I really, really hope that Novodevichy Convent will strike you right in the heart, and make you never forget your Moscow trip again! By the way, these days it’s also a branch of State Historic Museum, so think for yourself how important this place is!
And please, don’t think Novodevichy is located somewhere far, far away from the city center. Not at all! In fact, it sits right near “Luzhniki” stadium – and very close to “Lubianka” metro where there’s also a building of a once-almighty Russian KGB. From there, you can continue straight to the Kremlin if you like…
…but I suggest you dedicate to Novodevichy a whole separate day!
Related posts:
- Victory Day in Russia
- Victory Day in Russia 2009. City of Chekhov, Moscow region.
- VDNH - a great place to stroll!
- The Kremlin
- St Basil Cathedral - a must see!
- Park Pobedy - a great place to visit
- Ostankino Tower
- Okhotny Ryad shopping mall in Moscow, Russia
- Moscow Zoo
